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                                                                                                          Arabella feed and recommend ADVANCE products.

Welcome to our website, Arabella Border Collies & Ragdoll's!

Our stud is situated on our prorerty which is named "Araluen" which is aboriginal for "Place of water lillies" . We are a small stud situated in the rolling green hills of Urunga & Belllingen Valley which is situated in the foothills of the Dorrigo plateau.

Arabella breed Border Collies and Ragdolls and established ourselves in early 2019. We DNA test all our breeders for quality assurance and conduct annual veterinary inspections of our premises to ensure we maintain our reputation for providing only quality well loved fubabies.

We have chosen very good quality healthy DNA tested animals that we are proud of. Our Border Collies & Ragdolls are extremely well cared for and have lots of love to give ensuring we provide lovely temperament puppies and kittens.    

Outside of our Health & Warranty Gaurentee, Desexing Voucher, Extensive information Pack and Puppy or Kitten Packs, we also offer six week free PetPlan insurance cover.

Our Border Collies & Ragdolls are also selected and undertaking training for diasability service support work between Coff's Harbour and Numbucca Heads.

 Stunning Ragdolls

We breed Traditional Seal Point & Mitted Ragdolls, Rare Minks, Mink & Blue Bi Colours and we are very proud to be one of only a very small number of breeders of the stunning Sepia Ragdolls in Australia. 

Gorgeous Border Collies

We breed Blue Merle, Chocolate Merle, Lilac Merle. Red, Wheaton, Chocolate Tri/Sable. We have chosen our breeding dogs very carefully so they thrive as our family pets and are certainly not just breed stock for us.

The Border Collie is one of the world’s smartest and most popular dog breeds. Originally developed as a herding dog because of its intelligence and obedience, the Border Collie is a medium-sized dog known for its friendly temperament.

Border Collie Overview:

Border Collies have thick, double coats which vary from smooth to rough and they come in a variety of colours with black and white being the most popular.  The dog should be brushed or combed regularly to keep a gleaming, healthy coat, and it should only be bathed when necessary. Border Collies are average shedders. Their eye colour is usually brown or blue, but some (especially merles) often have two different coloured eyes. Some Border Collies have pointy, erect ears, while some have dropped or semi-dropped ears.

Bred as working dogs, they thrive on praise.  The Border Collie is a highly energetic dog with great stamina, and consequently it needs ample exercise.  This makes them a favourite of farmers who need a trusted, helpful and loyal farmhand.

Healthy males usually weigh between 17 and 20 kg and stand around 48 – 56 cm tall. Females are usually 12-19 kg and stand at 46 – 53 cm tall.

The average lifespan of a Border Collie is about 13 years, but dogs living longer than 16 years is not that rare. In fact, the fourth longest-living dog was a Border Collie.

Ragdoll Overview:

The Ragdoll is one of the world’s most popular breeds of cat, but it is also one of the relatively newer breeds.

Ragdolls are born completely white and their face, ears and tail darken as they age. There are four patterns available: bi-colour, van, mitted and colourpoint, and six colours: seal, blue, chocolate, lilac, red and cream. Their large, wide-set eyes are a striking blue colour. Their coat is quite long and silky, and lies smoothly on the body. They are one of the larger cat breeds, with a muscular body, well-developed cheeks and medium-sized ears.

Ragdolls weigh between 4.5 and 9 kg and live up to around 15 years old.

Helpful Pet selection information for prospective clients:

When contemplating a new pet Border Collie or Ragdoll kitten, please review the below helpful information to assist you in getting only the best pet to meet your family and social situation.

When you purchase your new puppy or kitten and are trying to find a good Breeder, please have high standards. Registration, vaccinations, and seeing the mom with the pups inside the house is the absolute minimal standards of breeding. The recent price posts reveal that many might need some tips in order to get the most for your money. You need and deserve MORE from a Breeder when buying a puppy. The Breeders who put in substantial time and effort into training, socialization, and showing the parents, are the ones who deserve a premium price...rare colours are NOT ever what you should be paying extra for.

Imagine being a business owner (pet owner) who is hiring a new employee (dog/breeder) and you have an idea of the salary you are willing to pay (price for a puppy) and the resume (education, traits, and personality) needed for the job (being a family pet).


First lets define your dogs jobs at your home, will call this the “Job Description”.

*Might be a ggod time to get a pen and some paper or copy and place on a word doc sand just print out.!*

Make sure to actually write down the things you do, and don’t want in a dog:

  • do you want a snuggly dog/kitten or a dog/kitten that is more independent and hangs out a few feet away?

  • do you want a dog/kitten to focus on you (“people focus”) or a dog/kitten that is following scents and sniffing rather than paying attention to you (“environment focused”).

  • Do you want a dog/kitten that is biddable (wants to learn and please you with or without food rewards), or a dog who will maybe listen for food then go away when you don’t have food?

  • Do you want a dog/kitten that is bold and confident in new situations and not sensitive to its surroundings and footing, OR a dog/kitten that seems to see and focus on movement and every little thing around it?

  • Do you want a high energy dog/kitten (I don’t mean high exercises) a high energy dog seems to have not just an energetic body but an energetic mind too that is constantly thinking and working; common in Border Collies, or a lower energy dog (physically can be low energy but mentally also is content not using its mind and does not enjoy challenges)?

  • Do you want a dog/Kitten with a high prey drive or a low prey drive? AKA has a high reflex to chase and even catch moving objects, animals etc. (A VERY COMMON trait in Border Collies).

  • Do you want a dog/Kitten with courage who when scared bounces back fast and “gets over” the scary situation, or a dog/Kitten who gets scared and backs off never to try again? This also translates to a dog/kitten that will either ignore your corrections or take them hard, sometimes too hard!

The above traits are what we, in the dog/cat Breeding and training world, call, “FIXED or STABLE personality traits”, this mean that they are basically near impossible to change in your dog/kitten. You can train to use these traits to your advantage, but you can not erase them from your dog/kitten. They ARE genetic and are here to STAY for life!

  • Do you wan’t a dog/kitten who is sight sensetive and sees movement and is either chasing it or running and ducking away, you actually want a sight sensitive dog/kitten for sheep dogs to see lambs in the paddock!

  • Do you want a dog/kitten who is sound sensitive, good if you need a dog/kitten to hear command for long distances, but not good if the dog/kitten is frightened of sounds or jumps from them in fear.

The above are what we call, “SLIGHTLY tweakable traits”. As in, we can train and slightly change these traits to a degree and how your dog expresses them. REMEMBER a dog who is sight or sound sensitive does NOT mean that it is SCARED by any means, it just means that it notices these things. What a breeder does in the whelping box/weaning pen makes a HUGE difference. (I.e a sight sensitive dog who was exposed to lots of movement from day one and things flying over it’s head and exposed in a positive way (with food) is not an issue, however one who has not been exposed and then is at an older age and in a negative way, can turn very fearful and hard to fix! - thus it is not always just the traits but how the traits were handled during the first 12 weeks of your dogs life. The first 12-16 weeks are hands down the most crucial and 8 of these weeks is spent with the Breeder. Let that last part sink in more!

  • Do you want a playful dog/kitten that likes toys and playing tug?

  • Do you want a dog/kitten that makes a lot of eye contact and pays attention to you when training?

  • Do you want a dog/kitten that can focus on the task your doing together?

  • Do you want a dog/kitten that follows you round from room to room?

  • Do you want a dog/kitten that learns things fast?

The above traits are what we call, “Tweak-able Traits”. They can be changed much more easily with training and working with your dog/kittren!


  • Do you want a dog with good hips and elbows (ha parents who are tested), OR you don’t care about your dogs long term hip/elbow health (No health testing)?

  • Do you want a dog/kitten that is genetically clear of breed specific illness OR you don’t care about your dog long/kitten term genetic health (don’t are about health testing)?

  • Do you want a dog/kitten too come home parasite free (breeder de-worms at least 4X and/or does fecal testing on the pups/dam), OR you are okay getting a dog/kitten with worms and you will just deal with it yourself one the pup is already 8-9 weeks old?

  • Do you want a dog/kitten who int he first 8 weeks has been fed the very best food along with their mother, OR you are fine getting a puppy/kitten that was fed low quality food because you will just cadge it to better food later (or not!)?

  • Do you want a dog/kitten that comes home to you having been examined by a veterinarian already so you know it is healthy, OR you want to take the chance and take it to your own vet after purchase?

  • Do you want a puppy/kitten who comes with a genetic health guarantee to at least 18 months of age, OR you are fine with a shorter guarantee or no guarantee at all?


*keeping in mind again that the first 12-16 are by far the most important time in your dogs/kitten life for socialization and learning people and dog/kitten skills* So, from 0-8 weeks of age:

  • Do you want a dog/kitten to have been exposed to many sounds sights, people, places, cars and smells DAILY, prior to 8 weeks, OR NO, because you will do it yourself when you get the puppy/kitten?


  • Do you want a breeder that you can call if your dog/kitten looks “off” or you have training issues, OR a breeder who does not have the ability to help you even if they wanted to due to lack of knowledge themselves in these topics, OR a breeder who just won’t even answer the phone at all after you leave?


I hope you wrote all these things down! That is your “job description”, and now you must “hire” a breeder and one of their puppies/kitten to help you fill that “job”. No pup/kitten is 100% going to fit your description, but a good breeder will pick the one out (after spending 8 weeks with the pups full time) that is as close as possible or refer you to another litter or breeder even to ensure success!

NOW imagine you have two puppies offered to you! ðŸ™‚

Breeder-A: Offering Pup-A to you that is very close to the job description and traits that you want at a price of $3400. This dog is from an ethical breeder who shows to prove the parents, does all the hereditary testing, provides a genetic health guarantee over 18 months in length, trains the pups and socialized them extensively many times a day, spares no expense in vet and food costs, provides lifetime of experience and support for the dogs life, and picks the pup for you based on them watching the litter for 2 months. This puppy is black and white with brown eyes and is vet checked, microchipped, and very well socialized.

Breeder-B: Offering Pup-B that does not fit the job description in many ways….this pup though, Breeder-B “brags” is a “rare” blue merle with blue eyes and you can have first pick of the litter, you can pick based on colour and by meeting them for one hour at the breeders home in the living room - regardless if Parvo is a threat in their area. They tell you their vet has seen the pups and the adults for yearly health checks, but no DNA testing has been done, or they don’t even know that it is an option. They feed cheaper foods or good ones, they have not really socialized the litter, but their kids play with them all the time and the neighbours too, but have no idea about modern socialization protocols and have done no temperament checks, basic training, crate training etc. Their price is $3800 because the pups are a “rare” colour though, and for extra $1000 more ($4800) you can get a blue eyed, lilac, sable merle puppy!!!!

IF* you picked Breeder-A, good job!

IF* you picked Breeder-B…because of colour…then you have just hired an employee for a job based on their “hair, skin or clothing”….No good will come from hiring a person based on their hair colour instead of on their resume, education, interview, and accolades...AND ALSO paying them MORE for their hair colour than you would someone with a way better eduction and resume because their hair is a “rare” colour! ðŸ˜³

A puppy is a 12-16 year commitment, you will have the dog, hopefully, longer than that new car or TV!!! When fluffy is toy and food guarding, growling, reactive to dogs, strangers, cars, sensitive to movement, light and sounds, anxious and snippy etc. you are stuck with that for that dogs life (should be!) and I doubt his colour will matter when your dealing with the issues that cause thousands for a behaviouralist to fix, or thousands to fix preventable health issues! You will not find joy in a dog that is a constant struggle to live with, his colour will not matter when you’re crying and exhausted trying to get the dog over its latest anxiety issues.

*Temperament is mostly genetic*

I can not stress enough the first 12-16 weeks of life is by far the most important, 8 of them is spent with the Breeder, hold the breeder to high standards. You deserve for you hard earned money to go to the right place.

Things to ask Breeders:

  • How many litters have you had in how many years? AKA how experienced are they? 

  • what health tests have the parents had and may I see copies of the results? (Minimum should be a copy of both parental Full Breed DNA testing)

  • What kind of temperament do you breed for?

  • what are the temperaments of the parents? (Are they: biddable, shy with strangers, like other dogs, like new places, chase shadows or lights, scared of thunder, have any phobias?) If the parents have been bred before what were the temperaments of the pups like? Ask to talk to those pups owners!!!

  • How do they determine which puppy is yours? (They should assist in picking FOR YOU!! based on responses to questions above - Never pick based on colour or a photo!)

  • What kind of temperament and basic training do you commence prior to the pups leaving?

  • How do you socialize pups prior to them leaving and how often? Do they leave the house only once for the vets or a few times before they leave? (Puppies/kittens should get around 3x a week of solid socialization - just their kids playing with pups/kittens is NOT enough!!)

  • what training do you start on?

  • do you use a potty box in the puppy/Kitten pen or are they allowed to just potty anywhere?

  • is someone home with them full time till they leave? (How long are they left alone per day)

  • after the pups go home do they want to stay in touch with you!? Good breeders will say yes!!


We at Arabella Border Collies & Ragdoll's hope you find the information above helpful as it is our mission to promote our dedication in helping prospective clients in selecting only the best puppy/kitten to meet both their physical needs but most importantly, the needs of our Border Collie & Ragdoll Fur Babies!!!!!


Tracie Skinner

Arabella Border Collies & Ragdoll's